Travelling is a distant dream for all of us at the moment, but with this week’s weather bringing out the rosé in full force (at least in our household) and with the days about to get longer, it seems about the right time to start planning an escape to the South of France.
While we’re all getting used to this new reality of isolation and social distancing, I’ve been reminiscing about some of the hidden treasures that we stumbled across during our trip.
While we one of the most touristy spots in Provence for our stay, we managed to discover number of tucked away hidden treasures – mainly with the direction of our wonderfully French neighbour, Philippe. I’ve already mentioned Joucas, but other little relatively unknown spots in the Gordes/Goult area definitely worth an explore include Oppède-le-vieux, Saignon and Taillades.
Silent Saignon
Saignon, reached via winding steep roads just south of Apt, was quite a magical find. One great memory I have of our time in France was our weekly exploration trips, where we would randomly choose a village we hadn’t yet been to and set off to discover mainly if it had a playground or offered a decent coffee. Saignon had neither, but it is a picturesque collection of meandering medieval streets, with wonderful views from the top of the castle ruins towards a snow-topped Mount Ventoux.
The cobbled lanes are perfect for little people to explore, and there was even an abandoned hotel in the middle of the main square that looked like a prime snap up opportunity in case anyone is thinking of a career change..
There’s limited choice for food, and we were there pre-season opening so had even less choice, but the Au Comptoir de Balthazar looked pretty yum – heavy French food under a canopy of greens and vines. Not particularly child friendly.
Oppède-le-vieux
As the name might suggest Oppède-le-vieux is the old part of a more modern village (Oppède). Oppède itself doesn’t offer a huge amount except for a decent boulangerie and a very decent playground, if you head south a little further up to the top of the Petit Luberon mountains you’ll come across a once abandoned ancient town. The village was deserted in the early 20th century, and although it looked like a few residents have returned it retains quite a ghostly feel.
Parking a little below the village, you walk up the winding steps to discover this secret(ish) gem. It was eerily quiet when we visited, but that was a chilly early March morning.
As far as we could tell, there’s not much up there apart from a wonderful looking little restaurant (Le Petit Cafe) with a lovely courtyard. Not cheap, given the lack of options once you’re up there, but very pretty. Have yourselves a quick café au lait break, before wandering up through the village to the history-steeped hilltop church, surrounded by medieval ruins. A good few Gruffalo caves to entertain / speed up little children too.
It’s not hard imagine but this collection of cobbled streets and cavern dotted hills played an important part in hiding the thousands of artists that fled the Nazis during WWII (calling themselves le Groupe d’Oppede). This area in general is rich in Résistance history, the region’s many hilltop villages and vast mountain ranges offering secret hideaways and protection from the encroaching Nazis.
Taillades
Taillades, about 15 minutes from Cavaillon, is another relatively unknown medieval village that we discovered when investigating a Michelin guide restaurant, L’Auberge Des Carriers, that we are yet to make it to.
L’Auberge was on our must-go must tick off before we leave list but I think our ability to deal with wayward children during lunches in fancy restaurants was at rock bottom by that point, so we didn’t even try. This one is now on my ‘must go on our child-less free visit once this lockdown lifts.
Wandering up the lane behind the restaurant takes you up to a lovely little medieval church and a great viewing spot stretching out across the region, overlooked by the Luberon mountains.
After the church, head down towards the picturesque old water wheel (via a little playground). The wheel used to mill flour, but now just flows with the Carpentras canal. Mkkkh7cxdskjjdkjckxsxjjkzj jucjuzk jkx zimkm. M. M zdsss
By way of Provence 